Echeveria “Violet Queen” is a fast-growing plant. You will love caring for this succulent.
The leaves are silver-green, and sometimes the tip of the plant turn red-pink.
You can find the Echeveria’ Violet Queen’, in colors like gray, blue, green, and pink.
This plant is not only attractive for its variety of colors, but also for the rosette shape it has.
Echeveria “Violet Queen” Care
Echeverías is a plant that needs to be in a well-lit space, but it may not tolerate direct sun exposure or very hot climates.
Therefore, it is best to locate them outdoors in an area with great lighting and where they can receive a few hours of direct light, either in the early morning or in the afternoon.
In the garden, they are commonly used to fill complicated spaces for other plants, with little soil or rocky areas.
Indoors, it is best to locate them in a very well-lit room, preferably near a window or light source that will provide a few hours of gentle sunlight.
Echeveria is a temperate climate plant. The ideal temperature should be between 21ºC/69 ºF and 27ºC/80 ºF in the warm months.
In winter, if it drops below 15ºC/59 ºF, make sure to bring it indoors or put it in the greenhouse.
With time and with the proper care, it can withstand higher temperatures (although its leaves may burn ) or much lower temperatures, even mild frosts.
But I won’t suggest to test how long your succulent can handle high or low temperatures. Just keep in mind that its possible, in case of an emergency.
As with virtually all succulents, over-watering can become one of the main threats.
The usual thing is to water once the surface layer of the substrate has been completely dry.
Watering too much can cause your plant’s roots to rot, causing death or significant damage.
A very common practice in this type of plant is watering by immersion, that is, putting the entire pot in water for a couple of minutes so that the plant takes the water it needs, and the rest is filtered without further ado.
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Apply a cactus and succulent fertilizer in early spring.
You can also use a universal fertilizer for houseplants with a low concentration of nitrogen and apply it diluted to half of the indicated level when you water during the growing season.
In spring and throughout summer, fertilize every 3-4 weeks.
From the fall and throughout winter, you don’t have to fertilize.
To ensure optimal growth, supply a balanced fertilizer equally in nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium (for example, 30:30:30).
Also, make sure that the fertilizer always contains microelements such as iron (Fe), manganese (Mn), copper (Cu), zinc (Zn), boron (B), molybdenum (Mo), magnesium (Mg) they’re all necessary for the health of the plant.
Plantation or transplant
The Echeveria plant, like all plants, needs to be transplanted periodically, in spring.
For transplanting, use a specific compost for cacti (cactus soil) to facilitate faster drainage.
Try to put broken clay in the drain hole so that soil or roots do not obstruct the drain hole as waterlogging is lethal for this plant.
It is advisable to use terracotta and not plastic because they allow the earth to transpire and therefore reduce soil moisture more quickly.
The pots have to be wider than deeper because the root tends to develop in width rather than depth.
The first irrigation after transplanting is done by immersion. Remember that if you have pruned the roots, wait at least a week before watering to allow the wound to heal.
The substrate of the echeveria must offer excellent drainage, especially if we are going to water it by immersion, which is highly recommended.
Use a mixture for succulent plants and add perlite, or make your mix with sand and perlite yourself.
Outdoors, locate it where the rainwater does not accumulate, always avoiding puddles.
The plant is not pruned.
Simply remove the leaves that gradually dry up or spoil to prevent them from becoming a vehicle for parasitic diseases.
Make sure that the utensil you use for cuttings is disinfected, to avoid infecting the tissues.
Plagues and diseases
Echeveria is hardy plants, but fungi can harm them if watering is excessive.
When the rainy or winter season arrives, it is good to start applying a fungicide (either homemade or purchased) to prevent fungi from forming in your succulent.
It is also frequently attacked by mealybugs and aphids, which we must eliminate quickly.
These pests are usually housed at the base of the leaves.
Slugs and snails can seriously attack the succulent, we can avoid this by locating the plant in higher places.
If the leaves become somewhat flabby, it is a symptom of a lack of watering. In this case, you should go and water it now. But not that frankly, if you ware doing it every 15 days do it every 3 days.
If any stem region is observed to be dark brown with softening of the area, it is a symptom of rot.
To recover the plant, you must cut the stem 2 cm above the damaged area, wait for the cut to heal, and re-sow.