Echeveria “Neon Breakers ” belongs to the Crassulaceae family, a large group of succulent plants originating in Central America (especially Mexico) and Northwest America, in areas characterized by strong climatic oscillations between day and night.
Echeveria “Neon Breakers” is a purple succulent with curved edges and a rose-colored rose.
A cool fact about this plant is that the more sunlight it gets, the brighter her colors will be.
If you guarantee your plant the perfect amount of light, water, and compost, as demonstrated, you will have beautiful blooms.
The plant generally begins to flower in March and continues throughout the summer until September.
Echeveria “Neon Breakers” Care:
Optimum summer growing temperatures range from 15-21 ° C / 59°F- 69.8°F but also tolerate higher temperatures.
It is best if the succulent is not exposed to temperature below 7 ° C / 44.6°F.
If temperatures drop around these values, move it to a hotter, brighter place.
Irrigation must be carried out when the substrate surface is completely dry.
A good practice is to water the substrate properly, drain all the excess water, and make sure to wait until the succulent soil is dry before proceeding with the next irrigation.
During the fall-winter period, the waterings should be reduced significantly, and if the temperatures drops, decrease watering or even suspended.
Make sure to avoid leaving stagnant water in the potholder as waterlogging is not tolerated in any way and would lead to root rot.
Like all succulent, they are not particularly subject to disease. In the case of this succulent, diseases may appear because of poor cultivation techniques. For example:
The stem of the plant rots, and the cause is overwatering.
Remedy: Unfortunately, if the entire plant rotted, there is nothing more to do.
Unless it is a partial rot, if you notice some stems are still ok, you can try to save the plant. Do it this way.
Remove the plant with all the soil that the pot contains. You must leave the substrate and the plant outdoors to dry fast.
Control the roots and eliminate the dead ones by cutting them at least 1 cm over the damaged area with a sharp and disinfected scissor.
Spray the cutting surface with a broad spectrum fungicidal powder and after you can transplant it.
Wait at least fourteen days before watering again, and, most importantly, make sure to take care of the watering needs of your succulent and don’t overdo it.
The plant loses the leaves
This is caused because of low temperatures or cold drafts.
Remedy: place the plant in a more suitable position.
The green parts of the plant become discolored and appear hollow.
This symptom is generally due to too little watering.
If we go without watering the plant for many months, especially in summer, the plant exhausts all the water contained in the tissues or leaves.
Remedy: water the plant more frequently. But don’t rush into it.
If you were watering every 10 days before, start doing it every 2 o 3 days.
Brown spots on the leaves
If you see brown spots under the leaves, this could mean you have mealybug.
These are very harmful insects. There are usually two types: brown mealybug and cottony mealybug.
Remedy: remove them with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol, or if the plant is large and in a pot, it can be washed with water and neutral soap, gently rubbing with a sponge to eliminate parasites.
Then the plant must be rinsed well to remove all soap. For larger open pit plants, you can use specific chemicals.
As with all succulents, over-watering can become one of your main threats.
The usual thing is to water once the surface layer of the substrate has been completely dry.
Watering too much can cause your plant’s roots to rot, causing death or great damage.
So try to keep it simple and water when necessary. I suggest having pots with drain holes; this helps a lot when you’re a beginner.
A very common practice and something cool you could try is call watering by immersion, that is, putting the entire pot in water for a few minutes so that the plant takes the water it needs.
You can use universal culture substrate with perlite in equal parts.
For the garden, it needs a soil capable of draining water quickly, as its roots are very sensitive to waterlogging.
Having this type of soil in a natural environment is hard to find, so what I suggest is to dig a hole deep and wide enough(those that are square, about 20x20cm minimum, and hollow) then fill that block with some substrate.
How to propagate the echeveria neon breakers?
It is very easy to propagate; you can do it by division, cuttings, or seed.
The easiest way is by division.
• Cut the offspring of the mother plant with a clean and disinfected knife.
• Let the wound heal for a few days.
• Plant in a substrate for cacti and succulents.
To spread by cuttings do the following:
• Detach a leaf from the mother plant. Choose from mature leaves as they take root more easily.
• Let it dry for 24 hours.
• Push the cut end into cactus and succulent substrate. It is unnecessary to moisten the substrate for the first few days or put a bag to retain moisture.
It is better to propagate in spring and summer.
Propagate by seeds.
Although they can be multiplied by seeds, this method is quite complicated.
It is necessary to place a seedbed with a sandy substrate that will always be kept slightly humid, close to a heat source, and start doing fungicide treatments to avoid fungi.
And still, no matter how much control you have, you cannot be sure that they will germinate.
You have a better opportunity if you do it by division or cutting, but hey, if you want to learn and be a professional at this, you can try.
Remember when propagating your succulent try to use substrate.
Planting or transplanting time
If your succulent is in a pot, make sure to transplant every two in spring.